Mrs. Sigg’s Fresh Pumpkin Pie

I don’t know Mrs. Sigg, I confess. I’m not even sure there is such a person, I just thought, the week before Thanksgiving, with a pumpkin arriving in the last share of the 2017 CSA season, a recipe for pumpkin pie ought to be included. So this is one from inter-web, but there were several rave reviews. One thing that’s kind of cool is it suggests that refrigerating overnight actually improves the flavor, which kind of takes the pressure off […]

Kale Dumplings with Brown Butter and Pumpkin

The Italian name for these delicious parcels of kale, egg and ricotta (“little pillows from heaven,” said one taster) is malfatti, translating to “poorly formed,” which is ideal because there’s no need to fret about perfectly shaped dumplings. A simple butter and sage sauce complements the satisfying mouthful of tender, cheesy kale goodness, and the pumpkin adds beautifully contrasting color on the plate, as well as a hearty, slightly sweet contrast to the malfatti. I will say, on our first attempt, […]

Fennel Frond Paste

I know, this sounds weird. “Paste” may not be the right term – garnish, maybe, or accent –  but the idea was to offer a recipe specifically for using fennel fronds, because they’re so great, and they deserve a destiny greater than the compost heap. ( This pesto is part of a more complete dish which also utilizes the fennel bulb, and is included below the fennel frond instructions). You’ll want to experiment with it a bit – if you’re […]

Celeriac, Leek and Chanterelle Soup

Author Aleksandra Krapanzano speaks lovingly of  the “deep, lingering” flavor of this soup, saying it is “the taste of late fall – earthy, smoky, rooty. She suggests serving it “in warmed earthenware bowls, followed by a winter salad of bitter greens, and then a rustic apple and pear crisp.” Yum! It’s perhaps a wee bit fussy, but to hear her tell it, worth the effort. Note that the recipe calls for the cured meat to be cut into “lardons,” which, […]

Grilled Leeks, Chevre, Brown Butter and Smoked Almonds

An unconventional salad or starter, this recipe comes from a London restaurant called Kitty Fisher’s, where apparently the kitchen is very tiny, so without room for a “proper stove,” they chose to install a wood-fired grill. If you barbecue over wood, you will be replicating this recipe very faithfully. But whatever method of grill you have, the important thing is not to be afraid of blackening the leeks. This is meant to serve 2, however the serving size depends entirely […]

Celery Root Soup

I can’t wait to make this creamy winter soup, which in addition to being a warming meal, also has the virtue of being “very easy to prepare—and cheap. I think the entire pot of soup cost me about two euros, and took me less than ten minutes to put together. You can use onions if you can’t find leeks,” says David Leibovitz. He is as picky about getting the leeks clean as is Gabrielle Hamilton, whose explicit instructions on this task can […]

Celeriac Remoulade: Four Variations on a Theme

If you Google “celeriac remoulade,”  several  notable chefs/food writers will come up: Mark Bittman, Martha Rose Shuman, Nigel Slater, Jamie Oliver, David Leibovitz, Ina Garten.  They are unanimous in their appreciation for this French standard, ubiquitous at Paris bistros and widely available for take-away from neighborhood shops. I’m going to include comments from several of those experts here, and as I quote them I will include hotlinks so you can go directly to their sources and explore the similarities/differences between […]

Squash and Celeriac Quinoa Stuffing

A reader-submitted recipe to Tara Parker-Pope’s column, this has all the lovely flavors of fall (squash, celery root, parsley, sage, thyme and hazelnuts), but the use of quinoa makes it a nice vegan alternative to the usual Thanksgiving stuffing. If you’re not vegetarian, maybe using a little bit of bacon fat in place of the olive oil, and/or adding some chopped bacon to the mix, would be nice (right about the time you’re doing the garlic and onions.) Ingredients: 1 cup quinoa […]

Carrot Soup with Ginger, Turmeric and Lime

If you’ve always wanted an immersion blender, but have resisted investing in one, this may be the soup that makes you glad you gave in. Otherwise, it’s a blender or food processor for puréeing, and sometimes that’s messy with hot liquid. (There’s also the old-fashioned food mill, which is a pretty cool tool.) Anyway, David Tanis says this is neither “cloying, overly sweet, one-dimensional, nor too thick,” just fresh carrots, bright spices and a squeeze of lime. “The final sizzling […]

Savoy Cabbage and Carrots, Two Ways

Both of these “recipes,” so simple they hardly seem to be recipes at all, come from the BBC Good Food website. You can click the “recipe credit”  links to see the originals; I’ve altered them here only in the cooking time/method. London may have become an epicurean epicenter, but you wouldn’t know it from these recipes – these are straight up, old-school, overcooked veg, done the way the Brits once made famous – but it doesn’t  have to be that […]